Graffiti Removal Tip Sheet

when removing graffiti:

• Choose a technique that avoids further damaging the underlying surface.

• Start with the mildest cleaners before moving on to stronger ones.

• Use proper safety equipment.

• Detergents and chemicals are harmful to wildlife. Do not let these flow into a storm drain. (All storm sewers go straight to streams and rivers. Even soap can harm fish.)

• Read product labels and follow all manufacturer instructions and recommendations.

• If you have any doubt about personal safety, work as a neighborhood team and seek advice from the police. 

wood surfaces

• For a temporary solution, try turning fence boards around so the graffiti is not visible.

• Solvents such as mineral spirits can drive the paint further into the wood and are therefore not recommended for weathered or unpainted wood surfaces.

• Use a low-power pressure washer. Do not use a narrow a tip, which can etch the surface. Work from top to bottom. Use back-and-forth overlapping strokes.

• If nothing else will work, sand and re-paint or simply paint over the graffiti. Start with a stain-killing primer or pigmented shellac.  This will keep the graffiti from bleeding through.

metal or other non-porous surfaces

• If you catch it quickly, paint and marker often come off with ordinary dishwashing detergent.

• Citrus-based solvents.     

The following chemicals, available from hardware and paint stores, are stronger, but could damage the underlying surface and require careful handling:

• Mineral Spirits (look for "odorless" varieties)

• Methanol

• Acetone 

masonry or concrete surfaces

• First, try using hot water and detergent with a stiff brush.

• If that fails, use a low-power pressure washer. Be careful. A narrow a tip will etch the masonry surface leaving an outline or ghost of the graffiti removed. Work from top to bottom. Use back-and-forth overlapping strokes.

• Alternatively, paint over the area but try to match the color of the paint and avoid creating a patchwork quilt effect by painting the entire wall or portion thereof whenever feasible. First apply a stain-killing primer to keep the graffiti from bleeding through. Do not use interior paint on exterior surfaces. If you must spot-paint, make sure to paint a straight and even border to delineate painted area.

• Do not apply paint to unpainted masonry surfaces, trees or natural stone.

plastic surfaces

• Wipe the graffiti with a light, penetrating oil such as WD-40 ^® or Three-in-One ^®. 

• Avoid paint thinners, which can soften the plastic or cause the surface to become permanently tacky.

stickers

• Use a thin, metal spatula available at craft or hardware stores to gently lift the bumper sticker or label from a nonporous surface.

• If necessary, use a small amount of solvent to loosen the glue. Avoid aggressive solvents that can damage the underlying surface. Citrus-based solvents are best.

other tips

• Use paper towels, rags or "scratchless" plastic pads.
• Remember to wear hand, eye and respiratory protection as required and safely dispose of solvent soaked wipes.
• Be patient.  Most solvents and removal products require time to work.
• Prevention techniques include planting vegetation; improving lighting; maintaining the appearance of buildings; creating community murals; employing protective, anti-graffiti paint coatings; limiting access; using warning signs, etc. Call the City's anti-graffiti program (214-670-6362) for ideas and advice.
• It is illegal to discharge solvents or paint residues into sewers or storm drains.  These can be disposed of at the Dallas County Home Chemical Collection Center located at 11234 Plano Rd. (214-553-1765).

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Note:  There are many commercial graffiti removal preparations available. A 2003 study by The Center for a New American Dream evaluates products from the standpoint of effectiveness and safety.  The report is online at www.newdream.org/procure/graffiti.html.